Here's a quick "How To" on installing a PMB Spark Arrestor End Cap and Silent Insert on a 2007 Honda CRF150R!
We purchased the PMB End Cap and Silent insert from CRF's Only. Customer Service was top notch and they shipped immediately! Since we were only a hundred miles or so away from them in Ontario, CA we received our pieces in 1 day.
The kit comes with instructions which were pretty easy to follow. I've never replaced exhaust packing or installed another end cap on a muffler before, but I grasped the concept rather quickly.
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Here are most of the items you'll need for the install. The instructions call for a heat gun, but I didn't use one and it worked fine. You'll also need a 10mm socket to remove the side number plate and exhaust canister. |
Remove the 2 right side number plate bolts using a 10mm socket. I like to use a tray to keep the bolts together once off the bike. I hate losing parts! Then you'll want to remove the 2 10mm bolts which hold the muffler to the subframe. Keep track of what bolts go where. Loosen the 10mm bolt on the clamp which attaches the muffler to the head pipe, then the muffler should slide right off!
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2 bolts to remove the side plate. |
2 bolts and 1 clamp to remove the muffler. |
Place the muffler on a vice, preferrably on the mounting tab of the exhaust. Be sure to place a rag or something in between the grips of the vice to prevent scratching of the mounting tab. Using a 3/16 drill bit, drill out the rivet pins securing the stock end cap to the canister. Using a center punch, push the remaining portion of the pin into the canister. You'll hear it drop in there. In most cases the rivet head will just pop right off. If not, you can drill or cut em off with a dremel.
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Secure the muffler to a vice to ease with handling.
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Drill out the Rivet Pin. Repeat. |
Punch the Rivet Pin into the canister. Rivet head should pop off. Or remove using other means! |
Using a 3/8 bit or similar, drill a hole into the stock end cap. You may have to use the center punch or drill a pilot hole to keep the big bit from dancing around! I'm sure there are ways to remove the stock end cap without damaging it, but who needs the stock one when you have a nice pretty red one?! Here's where the instructions call for a Heat Gun to help loosen up the stock sealant. I bypassed that... inserted an old screw driver and began to pound on it to remove the stock end cap. BTW I did this off the vice. Just held the canister in one hand braced against my legs while I used the other hand to beat the end cap off!
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Big Drill Bit. Notice the rivets are gone. |
Insert Screw Driver or other tool. |
Pound away til the end cap comes off. Not working? Either you missed a rivet or need a bigger hammer! |
Carefully remove the stock end cap and core out of the canister. Remove the packing as well and set it aside for reuse. Place the core back onto the vice and cut the end cap off the perforated core. Instructions say to cut as close to the end as possible. I cut flush at the end of the end cap and length was perfect when putting everything back together. I also cheated and used an pneumatic cut off wheel! Hacksaw will work fine, just take longer! Install the included core insert to the perforated core on the opposite side you just cut. Of course, tapered side out. Wrap the fiberglass padding around the perforated core and stuff this back into the canister.
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Cut the stock end cap off! I didn't use this cheesy hacksaw. I love Cut Off Wheels! |
End cap cut off and included insert. |
Spread some Hi Temp RTV Silicone onto the new PMB end cap and canister where the two will mate. I went ahead and threw some on the core as well. Line up the core with the hole in the new PMB endcap and insert the PMB end cap into the canister. Silicone will probably goop all over the place, but its easy to clean up with some alcohol. Rubber mallet is good here too to help make sure the end cap is all the way it.
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| Silicone around end cap mating surface. |
More Silicone in canister. And Core. |
Line up the core with the end cap and push the PMB end cap into the canister. I used a rubber mallet to "make sure" it was all the way in! Just clean up the excess goop. |
Place the assembly back on the vice and drill 3/16 holes into the end cap where the rivets will go. Make sure the end cap stays where it should! You'll probably get a little gap in between the end cap and canister, just as long as it's not a huge gap and the core slips out of position! Drill then rivet. After each rivet, press onto the end cap to make sure it hasn't slid out of position. Repeat until you run out of holes! More silicone will seep out. Not too hard to clean up.
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Drill holes into the end cap then rivet. |
All rivets installed. |
Here's the completed end cap with removable spark arrestor inserted. |
Install the red director piece onto the end cap with the 3 allen head bolts. Install the muffler assembly back onto the bike using the 2 10mm bolts and clamp. Follow that with the side number plate and you're done! I also opted for the silent insert which attaches to the end of the end cap. Directs the noise down into the ground. It does make a difference because these bikes are loud!
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Completed end cap without silent insert. WHAT?! HUH?!? I SAID... COMPLETED END CAP WITHOUT SILENT INSERT!!!!
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Completed endcap with spark arrestor AND silent insert installed... ahh much better. |
This was a rather easy install as I had all necessary tools on hand. The pieces fit extremely well and the quality is top notch! USFS approved spark arrestor so now we can take the bike out to the desert and have fun legally! The silent insert is a nice add on because these bikes are really loud even with the stock exhaust. The total ran about $180 for the parts and about $3 for some silicone. It included all the rivets and hardware necessary to install. You may also need some fresh muffler packing. Very happy with the product and recommend to everyone who is not looking to spend $300+ on a new exhaust with spark arrestor.
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Cons: |
| - Fit & Finish |
- Price (why do moto parts have to be so expensive!) |
| - Silent Insert makes a noticeable difference |
- Complete kit would include a small tube of silicone |
| - Easy Install for most with right tools |
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